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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.